E Gold Rush Letter

750 – Account of trip from New Orleans to San Francisco

San Francisco April 22^d 1854

Dear Sister A – As it has not been convenient for me to write you ere this I trust you will excuse my long silence and to make atonement I will write you a long letter this time and thinking perhaps it would interest you I will give you a little account of my trip from New Orleans to San Francisco.

Well as you are aware we left Orleans the 22^d ult and after a pleasant trip of 7 days with but little of interest transpiring during the voyage we arrived in Aspinwall which by the way has a beautifull [beautiful] appearance as you enter the romantic bay the coast of which is covered with dense foliage.

Leaving Aspinwall on the following morning I enjoyed one of the most novel R. Road [Railroad] ride I ever took. The road runs through a dense swamp and there is a perfect mass of beautifull [beautiful] foliage on either side of the track and such singing of Birds and chattiring [chattering] of parrotts [parrots] was wonderfull [wonderful] to hear and the passengers kept up such a lively popping of revolvers that one could almost imagine he was in the middle of a 4^th of July. When the cars stopped some would stray after rare flowers & thin [then] a mischievous scamp would bother shout at them and whin [when] the unsuspecting victim would start in terror expecting to be bitten by a snake his ears were greeted

with shouts of laughter. Fox river and numerous other streams were the most beautifull [beautiful] and romantic I have ever seen and in fact I believe their style of beauty can only be equaled in the tropics as foliage which adorns their banks would not grow as luxuriantly elsewhere. As we were taking in water near a lovely stream two natives in their light canoe came gliding around the bend and finding themselves so near us stopped their bark to gaze upon the intruders of their solitude. We saw many of these half naked creatures the most of whom was were armed with a monstrous long knife and altogether their appearance was not very prepossessing. Well in due time we arrived at Obispo where we found mules waiting to transport us to Panama.

After a fashion I found my self [myself] astride of a descendant of the beast upon which our Savior rode dashing through the woods like mad in the contest to see who should bring up the rear and it is but due the little fellow I rode to state that I was the 5^th one arriving in Panama of some 7 or 800. There was novelty enough in that ride up hill and down and through narrow gorges where mules could scarcely pass each other.

We met many Ladies who looked so meek and resigned. They were obliged to ride on mens [men’s] saddles and adopted the most convenient method.

Well about 4 ^1/2 o'clock P.M. we entered the Walls of Panama and arrived at Panama and as I entered the gates I met a Priest or what I know not who saluted me with a most friendly bow and smile. The town place has a most singular appearance which I fear I can give you but a poor idea of. It is quite small although some two hundred years old and is surrounded with a dilapidated stone wall mounting a few monstrous cannon. The streets are narrow and the houses I should judge were built of stone and covered with plaster. The most of them having a piazza to the second story. Some old ruins in the town look as though they had stood for centuries. The old churches have a most ancient appearance. They are almost destitute of furniture and look bare and empty. The Alters were intended to be gorgeous and a number of Images decorate the eides sides. One – the Virgin Mary I believe – was dressed in a costume resembling the dress worn by stage dancers of the present day. Near the eastern gates is an Alter in the corner or gable end of a building and here at all hours of the day you may see the natives going through their devotions.

As my attention was occupied otherwise I did not devote much time to itemizing while there. The town is overlooked by a monstrous hill which I believe was occupied by the cannon of the enemy when it

was taken many years ago – by whom I do not know I cannot conceive how any one [anyone] could think the place worth taking. Well the following afternoon we went aboard the Golden Gate which by the way is a splendid craft and about 12 oclock [o'clock] at night after firing three salutes and prolonged cheering we weighed anchor and stood out for sea. Nothing of consequence transpired until the evening of the 6^th when we made the made the port of stood in for Acapulco. As I had Having heard of the peculiarity of the place I was on the look out for the entrance to the bay but was entirely at a loss even though we were then in the outer bay when suddenly rounding a headlands we entered a most one of the finest harbours in the world forming a perfect basin surrounded by monstrous great hills and from the anchorage you could see no outlet not even the entrance. It was sand

It being dark we could not see the town but the natives soon came swarming along side with their canoes laden with fruits for sale. I then noticed a most singular phenomena. Viz. Where the water was disturbed ruffled by the oars and prows of the canoes it looked flashed like silver – some said fire – and made making a beautifull [beautiful] appearance. It was the same with the fish near the surface of the water as fore when going out they were disturbed

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by the Steamers prow they would start from a point – and dart in every direction (resembling very much the bursting of a rocket of serpents) marking their course by a streak of light. About 3 oclock [o'clock] in the morning having taken on sufficient coal a thundering salute was fired and we glided out of the lovely bay.

When we were there Santa Anna was within a few days march, I the town at the head of his troops Gen Alvarez held the three passes and the place is defended by a fort.

On the 13^th we passed the wreck of the Winfield Scott on an Island off Santa Barbara. Whin [when] within about a days sail of S. F. we saw large numbers of whales and porpoises passing so near some of the former that when they spouted it sounded like the snort of a waste pipe of a Steam Engine. We experienced some rough weather and consequently had some amusing scenes on board but I guess you will agree with me in thinking this letter long enough with out extending it farther so for the present – adieu. Write often and I will do the same. Reside it. I find last delinquent on writing you I am where I can stir him up to some purpose and remind him of his duty.

I told him with out delay why you did not write him oftener and I think you will hear from him more frequently.

Aff'y [Affectionately] your brother E__