39

LIFE AND TIMES OF FREDERICK DOUGLASS 413

was rocked and developed. The whole journey between these two great cit-
ies is deeply interesting and thought suggesting. It was the battle ground and
the scene of heroic endeavor, where every inch of the field was sternly dis-
puted; where the helmet, shield and spear of Eastern civilization met the
sling and arrow and desperate courage of determined barbarism. Nor was
the tide of battle always in one direction. Indications of the sternness and
duration of the conflict are still visible all along the line. These are seen in
walled and fortified towns, in grim and solemn convents, in old monasteries
and castles, in massive walls and gates, in huge iron bolts and heavily barred
windows, and fortifications built after the wisdom of the wary eagle on lofty
crags and clefts of rocks and mountain fastnesses, hard to assault and easy
to detend. These all tell of the troublous times in which they were erected,
when homes were castles, palaces were prisons, and men held their lives and
property by the might of the strongest. Here met the old and the new, and
here was fought out the irrepressible conflict between European civilization
and barbarism.

As we move eastward and southward between these two great cities the
traveller will observe an increase of black hair, black eyes, full lips and dark
complexions. He will observe a Southern and Eastern style of dress; gay
colors, startling jewelry, and an outdoor free and easy movement of the
people.

I have seen it alleged that the habit of carrying the burdens on the head
is a mark of inferiority peculiar to the negro. It was not necessary that I
should go to Europe to be able to refute this allegation, yet I was glad to see,
both in Italy and the South of France, that this custom is about as common
there as it is among the dusky daughters of the Nile. Even if originated by
the negro, it has been well copied by some of the best types of the Caucasian.
In any case it may be welcomed as a proof of a common brotherhood.

In other respects I saw in France and Italy evidences of a common iden-
tity with the African. In Africa the people congregate at night in their towns
and villages, while their living is made by tilling the soil outside. We saw
few farm houses in the South of France. Beautiful fields and vineyards are
there, but few farm houses. The village has taken the place of the farm house,
and the peasants sometimes go several miles from their villages to work their
vineyards. They may be seen in gangs in the morning, going to their work,
and returning in gangs in the evening from their work. Men and women
share this toil alike and one of the pleasantest sights to be seen, in passing
along, are the groups of these people, seated along the roadside and taking
their frugal meal of brown bread and sour wine, as cheerful and happy as if