49

THE LIFE AND TIMES OF FREDERICK DOUGLASS 423

with large flowing fountains and adorned with various attractive devices,
where the people have abundant pure water, fresh air, and bright, health-
giving sunlight.

Of street life in Rome I must not speak except to mention one feature of
it which overtops all others, and that is the part taken both consciously and
unconsciously by members of various bodies of the Church. All that we see
and hear impresses us with the gigantic, all-pervading, complicated, accu-
mulated and mysterious power of this great religious and political organiza-
tion. Wherever else the Roman Church may question its own strength and
practice a modest reserve, here she is open, free, self-asserting and bold in
her largest assumptions. She writes indulgences over her gateways as boldly
to-day as if Luther had never lived and she jingles the keys of heaven and
hell as confidently as if her right to do so had never been called into question.
About every fifth man met with holds some official relation to this stupen-
dous and far-reaching body and is at work in some way to maintain its
power, ascendency and glory. Religion seems to be in Rome the chief busi-
ness by which men live. Throngs of young students of all lands and lan-
guages march through the streets at all hours of the day, but never unattended.
Experienced, well-dressed, discreet and dignified ecclesiastics attend them
everywhere. On the surface these dear young people, so pure and in the full
fresh bloom of youth, are beautiful to look upon; but when you reflect that
they are being trained to defend dogmas and superstitions contrary to the
progress and enlightenment of the age the spectacle becomes sad indeed.

In contrast to them are other specimens of religious zeal neither pleasant
to the eye, to the touch nor even to the thought. They are the vacant-faced,
barelegged. grimy monks. who have taken a vow neither to marry, nor to
work, nor to wash, and to live by prayer;—who beg and pay for what they
get by praying for the donors. It is strange that such fanaticism is encouraged
hy a church so worldly-wise as that of Rome, and yet in this I may be less
wise than the Church. She may have a use for them too occult for my dim
vision.

The two best points from which to view the exterior of Rome are the
Pincian Hill and the Janiculum. Of the seven hills these are not the least
interesting, and from their summits can be taken in its full magnificence, a
general view of the Eternal City. Once seen from these points, it will never
he forgotten but will dwell in the mind forever. A glance reveals all the great
features of the city, with its grand and impressive surroundings. Here begins
the far-reaching and much dreaded Campagna, and at one's feet lies a whole
forest of grand historical churches, which with their domes, towers and tur-