A Trip Around the World [draft], 1910-1911

#16. words. The great South Gate of the city with all its suggestion of the barbaric past was especially impressive.

Oct. 14th.

Ash and I started early, going first to the famous North Palace, once the home of Korean Emporers and Empresses and memorable now in its mournful desolation and tragic memories. Here in 1895 in a building that we saw the Empress was murdered; near by we saw the spot where her body was burned, and were I Edgar Allan I might come here under to-night's harvest moon and write another "Fall of the House of Usher". Took a winecup from the ruins as a souvenir. From the Palace our Korean guide (who hates the Japanese) took us to the Museum and Pagoda Park, and after this tot he Temple of Heaven. Met a Japanese bicyclist who came proudly "scorching" down the hill. I turned to the right after American fashion and he to the left after Japanese fashion whereupon I flung him. Cost me 40 sen to mend my breeches, but I think he got hurt some! In the afternoon we went to the Queen's Tomb and here again found the spirit of the East umhampered by Occidental influence. The grotesque figures about the tomb are as odd as if they had come from Mars. Had an amusing experience with a little peasant boy carrying an enormous load of hay. Stopped sometime waiting for car and watched men at work in rice fields. After dusk went into temple of the God of War, the attendant lighting all the candles for us, making a most weird scene as Ash and I wandered around among the grimly queer images. After tea we took a walk among the shops.

Oct. 15th.

Ashe having left, after despatching some mail I called on Mr. Scidmore, American Consul-General, and Mr. Gould, Vice-Consul. Then went to see Rev. Mr. Bunker, a delightful Methodist missionary. In the afternoon he and I made a tour of the town. I then called Rev. J.S. Gale, Presbyterian, and while waiting for him had the pleasure of meeting some charming American or English--girls just how charming they are it takes a trip like this to discover! Also had some chocolate cake--the

#17.

first since I left home! Highly interesting talk with Mr. Gale and Mr. Gould.

Oct. 16th.

Spent on railway, my only English-speaking companions being Mr. and Mrs. Fred Bennett of the Unsan Gold Mine, bride and groom, both from Indiana. He has been here about three years and she has just come over and they were married on the 13th. He told me some very interesting stories. About midnight left car and went up Yula River to Antung stopping at a Japanese hotel for the night.

Oct. 17th.

Bright and early caught the little box-car affair on the narrow-gauge railway and started on my two days journey to Mukden. The country is surpassingly beautiful, the October weather at its loveliest, the mountain air most exhiliarating, and I entirely forgot the discomforts of my car in my enjoyment of the scenery. Stopped for tiffin at an engineers' club, and at night reached the Nisshin Hotel where Mr. Hirishima of th emitsui Co., Tokyo, also stopped. He thinks something should be done to dissipate the misunderstandings between Japan and America, and discussed also the "weakening fo the nation" through the drift from country to town.

Oct. 18th.

Left in the fine mountain air just after a beautiful sunrise, the autumn foliage in the woods and the "garnered argess" of the fields--aoliang, corn, millet, etc.,-- looking so beautiful that I found myself wifhing the day a week long in spite of my railway (lack of) accomodations. Took tiffin with my Japanese friends in picnic fashion, canned goods and some beef steak which they fried on a little chafing-dish-looking heater on the table. They ate with chopsticks, but I gave it up after an effort, my time being limited. Passed a bridal procession curious to look upon--the gorgeous bride astride an ass, two two-wheeled matting-covered wagons and several Chinese on donkeys in attendance. About 4:00 o'clock we reached Shih-Chae-tzu where we changed to a broad gauge line, but I had come to like my little low car from which I could step out so easily at each station, and regreeted to change. Found the Yamato Raileway Hotel at Mukden a marvel of comfort and convenience.

#18

Oct. 19th.

Called early to see Consul Fisher and took tiffin with him. Later called to see the German Consul and Mr. Heickendorff of the British American Tobacco Co. In the evening wrote up memoranda of my investigations into the vexed Manchurian situation.

Oct. 20th.

In the morning, wrote. In afternoon called on American Consul who was leaving for meeting, and as rain had come up I remained with his wife. Found her complaining of being unable to get anything done about the house, though there are eleven servants for her and Mr. Fisher (no children). Each servant waits for the other to do the job. Breakfast and dinner with my Japanese friend, and in evening met Mr. Tyer, a North Carolinian and Trinity 1900, now traveling for the American Tobacco Co.

Oct. 21.

Early morning called on Mr. Fisher and secured application for permission to visit Palace and the Peiling (Northern Tombs). Found the Palace hardly worth the unceasing tips I had to give, especially as they wouldn't let me quite get firmly seated ont he Chinese throne though I almost did. After tiffin at Astor House went to Peiling. The tomb itself is a massive earth mound probably fifty-feet high at the highest point and covering about an acre. Here leis Taitsun, the Emperor who forced Manchurian rule upon Peking, now guarded by a long approach of gates and temples and add statues of animals, real and mythological, carved in Oriental style, around the tomb an autumn forest, the trees bedecked with mistletoe, some with red and some with bright yellow berries.

It was significant that on leaving the tomb of the great Chinese Emperor-chieftan [crossed out Chufton,] I came to the British Consulate and met his Japanese clerk just as out a long line of Japanese soldiers in khaki marched by. "Ah, there are so many Japanese soldiers", he said with a troubled voice not easy to forget. "Can you tell me what they have al come for?"

And that is the Sphinx riddle for China.

Oct. 22.

In morning read "Peace or War East of the Baikal?" (lent me by Mez) for an hour, after which I called on the German Consul who very kindly went over my entire article with me and

#19.

helped me out on a number of points. From there called on British Consul, who rather excused the Japanese in general, but was silent when I suggested the foreign unity as to Japan's taking the country. About 3 o'clock Consul Fred D. Miller took me in his carriage to see Edward C. Parker, a most interesting American in charge of the Government Experiment Farm. Bough some photographs returning to hotel, where I found Mr. Tyer with Mr. Lewis, another North Carolinian. He proved a most delightful racontaur, and recited story after story of his Eastern experiences until eleven o'clock.

Oct. 23rd.

Failing to get a Cook's check cashed, borrowed ten yen from Tyre and started for Newchang at 8:50, Met a couple of interesting Engligh railroad men. Reached Newhung in late afternoon and did some writing.

Oct. 24th.

Eearly morning went to call on the American Consul, Capt. W.P. Kent, ate the Republican candidate for Governor of Virginia, and previously American Consul to Guatemala. He gave me a note of introcution to the Chinese Taotai, Mr. Chow. After tiffin I got a carriage and drove through the immemorial filth of New Change to see him. Educated in America, Chow can speak Engish with absolute perfection and talked with great frankness about Japanese agression in Manchuria. Also called on Mr. McCoslin of the Standard Oil Co., and on the German Consul. About 7:15 went by invitation to the home of Consul Kent to take dinner. A Mrs. Betts, a Virginian by birth (as is Mrs. Kent and the Captain of course), was there with her son, who struck me as quite a fine fellow. Had a delightful meal. Found the Consul a most intersting talker and when I came out I found Orion so high that I knew it must be about midnight, my watch had stopped!

Oct. 25th.

Left New Change bright and early ferrying across to the train. Immense traffic, a regular forest of ship masts. Did some reading on train to Ko-pang-tzu, after which I finished my Progressive Farmer article on Manchuria. Arrived about 8:00 at Shan-HaiKwan, the border between Manchuria and the rest of China, and the point where the Great Wall runs to the Sea. A tip-top meal--and I am beginning to appreciate such things when

#20.

I find them over here.

Oct. 26th.

Getting up early, at 7 o'clock, I left with a young Frenchman and a young German to go to the Great Wall, easily visible from any point of the city. It speaks well for any people that they had the daring and industry to conceive and execute so stupendous a task--the greatest "building" on the face of the earth. Found a place of ascent and walked for some distance on top of the wall where I got several stones as paper-weight souvenirs, pulling one out of the ancient structure itself. Proceeded to Teintsin which I reached about 4 o'clock. Got a much-needed hair cut and bought Thomas F. Millard's "America and the Far East".

Oct. 27th

Called early to see our American Consul, [crossed out Mr..........] whom I found quite interesting. He showed me a place where a bombshell aimed at the American flagpole during the Boxer troubles exploded and split up some stones or bricks. Next called to see Dr. Robert Coltman, Manager of the Standard Oil Co. whom I found very interesting. He was Li Hung Chang's physician. Also called on a Chinese editor with whom I had to talk through an interpreter. Left Tientain at 4:48 reaching Peking about 7:00. Glad to find some mail from home.

Oct. 28th.

Wrote letters in the morning. In the afternoon took riksha and went with my young German friend, Mr. Bolter, to see Roman Catholic Cathefral, Agricultural Experiment Station, and the Peking Walls. The city is unspeakably dirty. Arranged with Bolter and the young Frenchman, Mr. Cruse, both fine fellows, to go with them to Nankou tomorrow to see the Ming Tombs and Nankou Pass. Met a most interesting Portugese banker; evidently a man of distinction, Mr. P. Loureiro of Hong Kong. He was educated by Jesuit priests but doesn't think much of their organization. He introducted me to Sir Robt. Bredin, a brother-in-law of Sir Robt. Hart, and I understand, his possible successor. Saw several camels to-day.