RK-793

[stamped] Alice Cora Kennicott Collection

[handwritten] Lake Winnipeg about one hundred miles south of Norway House June 10th 1859 -----

Dr Tappan

Dear Sir: Therylewe[?] have experience considerable delay from wind on the lakes, the canoes being unable to travel on high waves, our progress is satisfactory

We will be at Norway House tomorrow, and as I learned at Ft Alexan der, the boats for the North as well as for the Bay will not reach that just till the 15th. We left Ft William May 19th with three canoes sent up for Gov. Simpson. He not having left Red River on our arrival at Ft Alexander one canoe was sent there to convey him to Norway House; the other two, with which I now am proceeding directly on their way voy age. My companion Mr Hubbard I sent to Red River where he will remain.

Until I reach Norway House and see Gov Simpson, I cannot tell where I shall go. If, however, I can be sent to Ft Simpson I will certain ly go there to winter.

Our route from L. Superior was up the Kannistoguia River, through Dog Lake & River, Lake of a Thousand Islands, Rainy L, L of the Woods and down the Winnipeg River. The country

is nearly all rock & swamp and I consider the accounts sometimes given of its fertility great exaggerations. I saw very little fertile snow still remaining on most of the route, and have had frequent frosts. The best looking land seen is on Rainy Lake River & Winnipeg River, but the tracts of good soil are of very limited extent. The wooded appearance of the islands (of which all the northern Lakes & Rivers contain great numbers) is very de ceptive as a pretty dense, though low growth of birtch and evergreens, is often supported by an astonishingly small quantity of vegetable mould, covering the rocks otherwise quite bare. I have examined trees, particularly scrub pines (P. Banksiana), 30 feet high, whose roots were supported by only three or four gallons of decayed vegetable lichens & mosses, and that too, lying upon a bare flat rock without any fissures! The growth of mosses & lichens are of the utmost importance to thse rock supported dwarf forests, not only supplying the soil at first, but in summer, serving to retain & attract moisture, and afford some protection against the sun, which must, in the long days of midsummer, heat the bare rocks permanently to a high degree of tem perature. From a little distance these rocky tracts often, & indeed generally, present the appearance of fertile soil. This scrub pine, which covers large tracts in places, is, I believe, when present, a pretty sure indication of a worthless soil. The scenery is to me all new and interesting, but is in places, picturesque beyond my power to describe. The falls of

the Kammistiquia[?] near Ft William, are very magnificent. A large river falls in a narrow rocky gorge about 150 feet and flows in a still narrower channel below the [falls?] for some distance between precipices of rock of the same height

After this the finest scenery has been on Lac des Mille Lacs and at the head of Rainy L. River. - I have had a very plea sant journey indeed and think I should never tire of a voyageur's life. I am received with the greatest kindness at all the H. B. Co's posts that I have passed and the voyageurs are as attentive to me as I could possibly wish, so as my outfit is quite comfort able, instead of having a hard time, I am traveling in the most agreeable manner possible. You said you wished you could visit the North and if you did so I can assure you that you would not be disappointed in your anti cipations of an agreeable journey. My collections thus far, though not very numerous, are as good as could be expected, considering the state of vegetation. I am very glad that I will be so far north with the opening of spring. As I said we find snow still here and hard frosts almost nightly. Only the earliest flowers are out and no trees yet in leaf on L. Winnipeg, though we passed poplars & birch in full leaf from Rainy L. to the mouth of Winnipeg River.

Norway House June 15th -

Sir Geo: Simpson, who arrived the day after I did, upon my stating my desire to go to Ft Simpson has consented to my going with the privilege of staying one or two winters. He said, that to take me at this time, with my baggage, would be quite inconvenient, on account of the unusually heavy loads carried by the boats. But still said that if my funds were sufficient to pay the necessary ex pense he would give me letters etc. And while at the different ports I would be at no expense

for living, paying only for any special service on which the men might be employed, and paying for any passage & luggage at the same rates as missionaries. This is quite low and is necessary because for any additions to their loads the boatmen receive extra pay. The amount that it will cost me for provisions for the voyage and for transportation I do not yet know, but Sir George says it will not exceed the amount I still have left (nearly $600). When once at Ft Simpson I shall, if funds can be sent me, and I succeed as well as I hope to in collecting very possibly spend a second winter and thus have the summer to make thorough investigations of this region (MacKenzie's River). I receive the kindest possible treatment from the governor & all the gentlemen of the service, all of whom seem desirous of facilitating my oper ations. And I cannot speak in too high terms of their liberality and hospitality. My passage to Ft Simpson, with seven pieces of luggage, including provisions, will cost. $120.00 - cost of provisions not yet known.

Very Respectfully R. Kennicott.