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Santillana, San Vincente de la Barquera (find that if you can), Oviedo
Avila, Zamora, Salamanca, Segovia, Madrid, Toledo, Escorial [?], Valladolid,
Burgos, Vitoria, and San Sebastian again. These are charmed names which
all the later bloodshed has not changed for us. But the countryside and its people are even more worth thinking of. We lived very close to them as one went
when traversing great distances where one sees only them. One stretch of a hundred
miles there was without sign of help had the Ford broken down, and another of
fifty miles in which [illegible] [illegible] but three cars. Yes everywhere we were tranquil
for the people smiled and were kind. I like to think of our luncheons [?] on the thick
turf of hill-side, with the peasants, donkey borne, black umbrellas afterward the
sun, coming fast in single file, each saluting as unaffectedly. Wine from the
black skins of country shops has a smokey touch [taste?] through.
This rebellion is essentially a [strikethrough] [illegible] [/end strikethrough] crime against nature. (Aren’t all
real crimes such?) The agricultural poverty of Spain is extreme; some of
the crops of wheat suggested those scant hairs which you and I have(?) tended(?)
Meaning you, Alf, meaning you!
so carefully on the life of our homes. Yes live the folk manage to, even with the
maggoty clerics (most of whom will never pupate [?]) all [illegible] and about them. They
have come to realize this unequal lot. And everywhere rise from the fields.