Stanford Student Letters and Memoirs

-4-

Krauters Sat night since the burg isn't open until Sunday night.

Monday was a magnificent day- much more interesting than we had expected. In the first place it was warm and sunny so that by 9:30 we had our jackets off and spent the rest of the day in our shirt sleeves- spring weather for sure. The countryside between Mainz and Worms is almost completely flat. Much like the San Joaquin valley except that it much greener here. Mostly large farmlands, lots of truck crops. We followed along the Rhine to Oppenheim, there took a short break to walk through the side streets. Here we left the river, following the highway, straight as an arrow southward to Worms. Here the Rhine comes back to meet it. With the help of a nice tailwind we helped the 50 kilometers to Worms in 2 1/2 hpurs [hours]- arriving at noon. We bought some supplies, found a small park for lunch, then stretched out on the grass in the sunshine for a lazy 45 min. doze- Ah. The lazy life of a traveling student.

Fully relaxed and refreshed, we set out to see a little of the city. Worms is the oldest in Germany dating from some time before the Roman occupation of the area about the time of Christ. It has been a royal city and a Bishop's seat, has a long and rich history. But of course, most of this cannot be seen in architecture etc. so its visual impact is something less than its historical significance. We saw a fine monument to Martin Luther and his fellow battlers in the Reformation. Remember, his trial took place in Worms. Sculptures of the main leaders with the pedestals containing the seals of several German cities, scenes from Luther's life and some of his most remembered sayings. Also nearby are ruins of the old Roman walls of the city and, very close to these, the city's cathedral. This last was unfortunately badly damaged in the many wars of the past 200 years but is now quite well restored. Especially from the outside it is very beautiful, in particular the sculptured figures at the sides and above on the main entrance- Gothic period and very striking. Reminded me of those on the Fraunkirch in Nuremberg.

Inside the cathedral is sort of a cluttered display of the salvaged sculpture of the original church dating from about 1000. Too crowded to appeal to my simpler tastes. The altar is especially ornate and bold, high baroque.

Having seen the most interesting part of Worms by about 4:15 and having heard that morning that the stretch from Heidelberg to Heilbronn, would be rough biking, we decided to go on further for the night. So we headed east across the flat valley toward Bensheim- actually to Eppenheim, where there is a youth hostel. These towns lie at the foot of a range of high hills (in Germany they are considered mountains) which run north and south from Darmstadt to Heidelberg. As we came across the valley toward Heppenheim, the mountain came into view and, on one of the very highest right above the town stood a tall tower, the ruins of an old fortress. Sure enough, further inquiry indicated that the youth hostel was in this tower on top of the hill so, after 70 kilometers biking, we finished off the day with a 45 minute clontain climb, pushing our bikes up the road to the hostel but it was surely well worth the effort for the view in every direction was breathtaking- out over the large valley to the Rhine, back into the small valleys in the hills, across to other nearby wooded crests, down to the roofs of Heppenheim.

heard that morning that the stretch from Heidelberg to Heilbronn would be rough biking, we decided to go on further for the night. So we headed east across the flat valley toward Bensheim - actually to Heppenheim, where there is a youth hostel. These towns lie at the foot of a range of high hills (in Germany they are considered mountains, with run north-south from Darmstadt to Heidelberg. As we came across the valley toward Heppenheim, the mountains came into view, and on one of the very highest, right above the town, stood a tall tower, the ruins of an old fortress. Sure enough, further inquiry indicated that the youth hostel was in this tower, on top of the hill! So after 70 km biking we finished off the day with a 45 minute mountain climb, pushing our bikes up the road to the hostel. But it was surely well worth the effort, for the view in every direction was breathtaking - out over the large valley to the Rhine, back into small valleys in the hills, across to other nearby wooded crests, down to the rooves [roofs] of Heppenheim. After a huge dinner from our packs, we went out again after dark to walk through the fortress and look out at the lights of all the villages, a light breeze carrying sounds from miles away through the still night.

Yesterday morning we rode the 27 km along the foot of the hills into Heidelberg. All along the way we passed countless blossoming fruit trees - with flowers of pink, white, yellow, and the light green of new leaves. It was a rainbow of color on a sunny day. It was fairly easy riding and we were in Heidelberg by 11 AM. After dropping our gear off at the hostel, we went by the railroad station to buy the week's Time Magazine, then to American Express to get mail [two more newsy ones from you Mom, much appreciated as always!] Then we went to the university mensa (cafeteria) for another good, inexpensive (30c) hot lunch. And off to walk around the old part of town. By far the most interesting was the famous Heidelberg "schloss" (there is no good one word translation, though "castle" is often given - a combination palace and fortress is as close as I can come). It is mostly a huge Baroque palace, with statues and columns sculptured into the walls, but the palace is built within the remains of the medieval fortress, with round turret towers, moat and stone bridges, etc. Around it are beautiful gardens, with the trees just showing their brightest spring green.

From the castle terrace there is a full view out over Heidelberg and you can begin to appreciate how beautifully situated it is. It's right at the beginning of the valley of the Neckar, and the city is built only in the bottom of the valley, the hills above remaining thick with lush green forests - it's really a perfect romantic setting for a city, with the river winding back into the hills out of sight. Coming down from the castle, we located part of the old university, wandered around the old